Installing the Arlo Video Doorbell is quick and straightforward, requiring just a few essential tools and a stable Wi-Fi connection. Begin by turning off power at the breaker, removing your existing doorbell, and connecting the Arlo device to the wires—no advanced wiring skills needed. Once mounted and powered back on, use the Arlo app to complete setup, customize settings, and start receiving instant alerts.
Key Takeaways
- Turn off power at the breaker before installation for safety.
- Use the Arlo app to guide setup and connect to Wi-Fi.
- Mount securely with the included screws and level for best angle.
- Test the chime to ensure it syncs with your doorbell button.
- Adjust motion settings in the app to reduce false alerts.
- Ensure strong Wi-Fi near the door for reliable video streaming.
Why This Matters / Understanding the Problem
Let’s be honest—your front door is more than just an entry point. It’s your first line of defense, your welcome mat, and sometimes, the only thing standing between you and an unexpected visitor (hello, porch pirates!). I used to think my regular doorbell was “good enough”—until I missed a package delivery because I didn’t hear it ring. That’s when I realized: if you’re not seeing who’s at your door, you’re not really in control.
That’s where the Arlo Video Doorbell comes in. It’s not just a fancy gadget—it’s peace of mind. With live video, two-way audio, motion alerts, and night vision, it lets you answer your door from anywhere. Whether you’re in the backyard, at work, or asleep upstairs, you’ll know exactly who’s knocking.
But here’s the catch: installing a smart doorbell isn’t as simple as swapping out the old one. Wiring, Wi-Fi setup, app pairing—it can feel overwhelming if you’ve never done it before. That’s why I’m walking you through how to install the Arlo Video Doorbell step by step. No jargon, no guesswork—just real talk from someone who’s been there (and yes, accidentally tripped a circuit breaker once).
If you’ve been putting off upgrading because you’re worried it’s too technical, let me reassure you: with the right tools and a little patience, this is totally doable. And once it’s up and running? You’ll wonder how you ever lived without it.
What You Need
Before we dive in, let’s make sure you’ve got everything on hand. Trust me, nothing kills momentum like realizing you’re missing a screwdriver halfway through.
Here’s your checklist:
- Arlo Video Doorbell kit – This includes the doorbell itself, mounting bracket, screws, and a charging cable (if you’re using the battery version).
- Screwdriver – A Phillips head is usually all you need.
- Drill and drill bits – Only if you’re mounting into brick, concrete, or need to run new wires.
- Voltage tester – Super important if you’re replacing an existing wired doorbell. Safety first!
- Smartphone or tablet – You’ll need this to download the Arlo app and complete setup.
- Wi-Fi network – The Arlo doorbell requires a 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi connection (most homes have this, but double-check your router settings).
- Ladder – If your doorbell is mounted high, don’t skip this. Safety isn’t optional.
Optional but helpful:
- Wire strippers – If your existing wires are frayed or too short.
- Electrical tape – For securing loose wires.
- Level – So your doorbell isn’t crooked (aesthetics matter!).
Pro tip: If you’re replacing an old wired doorbell, check your transformer. The Arlo needs at least 16–24 volts AC. Most older homes have 8–12V, which won’t cut it. You might need to upgrade—more on that later.
Now that you’re prepped, let’s get installing.
Step-by-Step Guide to How to Install the Arlo Video Doorbell
Alright, friend. Let’s get this thing mounted and connected. I’ll walk you through each step like we’re standing right there together, coffee in hand.
Step 1: Turn Off the Power
First things first—safety. Even though doorbells use low voltage, you don’t want to risk a shock or short circuit.
Head to your electrical panel and locate the breaker that controls your doorbell. It’s often labeled “doorbell,” “chime,” or “front door.” If you’re not sure, turn off the main breaker to be safe (I learned this the hard way).
Once the power is off, use your voltage tester on the existing doorbell wires to confirm there’s no current. Just touch the probes to the wire ends—if the tester stays silent, you’re good to go.
Warning: Never skip this step. I once thought, “It’s just a doorbell,” and got a nasty zap. Don’t be like me.
Step 2: Remove the Old Doorbell
Now that it’s safe, gently remove your old doorbell. Most are held in place by two screws. Unscrew them and carefully pull the device away from the wall.
You’ll see two wires connected—usually black and white (or red and white). Don’t let them fall back into the wall! Use a piece of tape to label them (“Front” and “Trans”) or just hold them with your fingers.
If the wires are short or frayed, now’s the time to trim and strip about 1/4 inch of insulation using wire strippers. Clean, exposed wire makes for a better connection.
Step 3: Install the Mounting Bracket
The Arlo comes with a mounting bracket that attaches to your wall. This is what holds the doorbell securely.
Hold the bracket against the wall where you want to install it. Use a level to make sure it’s straight—nobody wants a crooked doorbell (trust me, it bugs me every time I see one).
Mark the screw holes with a pencil. If you’re mounting into wood or siding, you can screw directly in. For brick or concrete, you’ll need a drill and wall anchors.
Drill pilot holes, insert the anchors (if needed), and screw the bracket into place. Make sure it’s tight—this thing will hold your doorbell, so don’t skimp on the screws.
Step 4: Connect the Wires
Now for the electrical part—don’t panic, it’s simpler than it looks.
Take the two wires from your wall and connect them to the terminals on the back of the Arlo mounting bracket. It doesn’t matter which wire goes where—Arlo is designed to work either way.
Loosen the terminal screws, wrap the wire ends around them, and tighten securely. Give them a gentle tug to make sure they’re snug.
If your wires are too short or don’t reach, you can use wire extenders (included in some kits) or splice in new wire. Just make sure all connections are insulated with electrical tape.
Step 5: Attach the Arlo Doorbell
With the bracket wired and secure, it’s time to snap on the doorbell.
Align the Arlo device with the bracket and press firmly until it clicks into place. You’ll hear a satisfying snap—that means it’s locked in.
Double-check that it’s level and secure. Give it a light tug to confirm it’s not loose.
If you’re using the battery-powered version, make sure the battery is fully charged before attaching. The doorbell won’t work without power, even if it’s connected to wires.
Step 6: Restore Power and Test
Head back to your breaker panel and turn the power back on.
Wait about 30 seconds for the doorbell to power up. You should see a light on the front—usually a blinking blue or white LED.
Press the doorbell button. If your existing chime rings, great! If not, don’t worry—we’ll fix that in the app.
But here’s the real test: open the Arlo app on your phone and see if the doorbell appears. If it does, you’re almost done.
Step 7: Download the Arlo App and Complete Setup
If you haven’t already, download the Arlo Secure app from the App Store or Google Play. It’s free and essential for setup.
Open the app and create an account (or log in if you already have one). Tap “Add Device” and follow the on-screen prompts.
The app will guide you through:
- Scanning the QR code on the back of your doorbell
- Connecting to your Wi-Fi network (remember: 2.4 GHz only)
- Setting up motion zones and alerts
- Testing the camera and audio
During setup, the app may ask if you want to enable cloud recording. This is optional but recommended—it lets you save video clips when motion is detected.
Once everything’s connected, test the live view. Walk to your front door and wave—your phone should get a motion alert within seconds.
Step 8: Adjust Settings and Mount the Chime (Optional)
If your existing door chime didn’t ring when you tested the button, you might need to adjust the settings in the app.
Go to Device Settings > Chime and make sure “Mechanical Chime” or “Digital Chime” is selected, depending on your setup. Some older chimes need a specific voltage to work—if yours still doesn’t ring, you may need a plug-in Arlo Chime (sold separately).
You can also customize:
- Motion sensitivity
- Alert schedules (e.g., only notify me after 10 PM)
- Video quality (higher quality uses more bandwidth)
- Two-way audio volume
Take a few minutes to play around with these. I set mine to only alert me during daylight hours—no more false alarms from passing cars at 2 a.m.
Pro Tips & Common Mistakes to Avoid
Let’s be real—even with the best instructions, things can go sideways. Here’s what I’ve learned from my own install (and a few panicked calls to Arlo support).
Pro Tip #1: Check Your Wi-Fi Signal
The Arlo doorbell needs a strong 2.4 GHz signal. If your router is in the basement and your doorbell is at the front of the house, you might get dropouts. Use a Wi-Fi extender if needed. I placed mine halfway down the hall—game changer.
Pro Tip #2: Upgrade Your Transformer If Needed
As I mentioned earlier, older homes often have underpowered transformers. If your doorbell doesn’t power on or keeps rebooting, this is likely the culprit. A 16–24V transformer costs around $20 and is worth the upgrade.
Pro Tip #3: Use the Right Screws
The included screws are fine for most walls, but if you’re mounting into brick or stucco, use longer masonry screws. I learned this after my first bracket pulled right out of the wall (embarrassing, but true).
Common Mistake: Skipping the App Setup
Don’t just mount it and walk away. The real magic happens in the app. Set up motion zones so you’re not alerted every time a leaf blows by. I drew a zone around my porch—now I only get alerts when someone steps onto the walkway.
Common Mistake: Ignoring Battery Maintenance
If you’re using the battery version, charge it every 2–3 months. The app will notify you when it’s low, but don’t wait until it dies—otherwise, you’ll miss important alerts.
Common Mistake: Mounting Too High or Too Low
The ideal height is about 48 inches from the ground. Any higher and you won’t get a good facial view. Any lower and it’s easy to tamper with. I mounted mine at 46 inches—perfect for seeing kids and packages.
Personal Insight: I once installed a doorbell only to realize my Wi-Fi password had a typo. Three hours later, I finally got it connected. Double-check your network credentials—it saves a lot of frustration.
FAQs About How to Install the Arlo Video Doorbell
Can I install the Arlo Video Doorbell myself?
Absolutely! Most people can do it in under an hour with basic tools. If you’ve ever hung a picture frame or replaced a light switch, you’ve got this. Just follow the steps and take your time.
Visual guide about How to Install the Arlo Video Doorbell
Image source: downloads.arlo.com
Do I need to run new wires?
Not necessarily. If your existing doorbell has two wires, you can reuse them. If there are no wires (or they’re damaged), you can use the battery-powered version or hire an electrician to run new ones.
Will it work with my existing door chime?
Yes, as long as your chime is compatible with the voltage. Most mechanical chimes work fine. Digital chimes may require a specific setting in the app. If it doesn’t ring, try adjusting the chime type in settings.
What if my Wi-Fi is slow?
The Arlo doorbell uses minimal bandwidth, but a weak signal can cause lag or dropouts. Make sure your router is close enough, or use a Wi-Fi extender. Avoid placing the doorbell behind thick walls or metal doors.
Can I install it without a doorbell transformer?
Only if you’re using the battery version. The wired version requires a transformer to convert household voltage to the low voltage the doorbell needs. Without it, the doorbell won’t power on.
How long does the battery last?
The rechargeable battery lasts about 3–6 months, depending on usage. If you get a lot of motion alerts or live view sessions, it may drain faster. The app will notify you when it’s time to charge.
Is professional installation available?
Yes! Arlo offers professional installation through partners like Best Buy or local electricians. It costs extra, but if you’re not comfortable with wiring, it’s worth considering.
Final Thoughts
Installing the Arlo Video Doorbell isn’t just about upgrading your home—it’s about taking control. No more guessing who’s at the door. No more missed packages. Just real-time alerts, crystal-clear video, and the peace of mind that comes with knowing you’re always connected.
And honestly? Once you’ve done it, you’ll feel proud. There’s something satisfying about tackling a project like this and seeing it work perfectly.
So grab your tools, download the app, and take that first step. Whether you’re a DIY newbie or a seasoned handyman, how to install the Arlo Video Doorbell is a skill worth having. And if you run into trouble? The Arlo support team is surprisingly helpful—just don’t wait until 11 p.m. on a Sunday to call.
You’ve got this. And when that first motion alert pops up on your phone? You’ll know exactly what I mean.